Why I skipped the AMS
For years, I put off buying a 3D printer. The cost, the learning curve, the mess—it all felt like too much. When I finally took the plunge, I didn’t spring for the fancy Bambu Lab AMS or Elegoo‘s multi-color system. I figured I’d never need them. Multicolor printing, I thought, was wasteful and slow. Why bother?
Then I saw it. A stunning multicolor dragon on MakerWorld. A vibrant lithophane on a 3D printing subreddit. My resolve crumbled. I wanted those colors. But I didn’t want to drop another $300+ on an AMS.
So I started experimenting. Turns out, you can get gorgeous multicolor prints without the expensive hardware. Here’s how I did it—and how you can too.
The manual filament swap method
The simplest trick? Pause the print, swap the filament, resume. It sounds primitive, but it works.
Most slicers—like Cura or PrusaSlicer—let you insert a “pause at height” or “filament change” command. You set the layer, the printer stops, you pull out the old spool, push in the new one, and hit resume. The result? Clean color transitions, no AMS required.
Tips for clean swaps
- Purge thoroughly: After swapping, extrude a bit of filament to clear the nozzle. Otherwise, you’ll get blobs or color bleed.
- Use a prime tower: It catches residual filament and keeps your model clean.
- Plan your layers: Swap at natural boundaries—like where the base meets the body—to hide the transition.
This method is perfect for prints with a few color changes. It’s not fast, but it’s cheap. And honestly, watching the colors appear layer by layer is oddly satisfying.
Painting: the underrated alternative
Another route? Paint your prints. I know, I know—it sounds like cheating. But hear me out.
Print the model in a neutral color, then use acrylic paints or markers to add details. This gives you unlimited colors, zero waste, and no extra hardware. I’ve painted everything from miniatures to plant pots, and the results often look better than filament swaps.
Plus, painting is relaxing. You can do it while watching TV. No printer noise, no failed swaps, just you and a brush.
What you’ll need to start
- Acrylic paints (a basic set costs under $15)
- Fine brushes or paint markers
- A clear coat spray to seal the finish
It’s not for everyone. If you hate crafting, this might feel like a chore. But if you enjoy hands-on projects, it’s a game-changer—and it costs pennies compared to an AMS.
Multi-part printing: assemble your colors
Here’s a trick I wish I’d known sooner: print each color as a separate part, then glue them together.
Say you want a red and blue logo. Instead of one print with color changes, you print the red base and the blue emblem separately. Then you snap or glue them together. No pauses, no swaps, no purge towers. Just clean, solid colors.
This works best for models with distinct sections. Think signs, coasters, or mechanical parts. You can design the pieces in your slicer or use a tool like Tinkercad to split them.
The downside? You need to design with assembly in mind. But once you get the hang of it, it’s incredibly efficient.
Is an AMS really worth it?
Let’s be real: the AMS systems are impressive. They auto-swap filaments, handle multiple colors, and even manage supports. But they’re also expensive, bulky, and—for many hobbyists—overkill.
If you’re printing functional parts, like brackets or gears, you probably don’t need multicolor at all. And if you do want color, the techniques above cover most needs.
That said, if you’re printing complex models with dozens of color changes, an AMS will save you time and frustration. It’s a trade-off: money for convenience.
My final verdict
I’ve saved hundreds of dollars by skipping the AMS. My multicolor prints aren’t perfect—there’s the occasional string or a slightly off swap—but they’re mine. And they cost me nothing extra.
If you’re on the fence, start with manual swaps. You’ll learn a lot about your printer and your filament. Then, if you still crave the convenience, you can always upgrade later.
Happy printing—and remember, you don’t need the priciest gear to make something beautiful.
